Our third day in Mexico City was the one we had been looking forward to from the moment we booked the trip!
This was Pyramid Day.
Well…Temple Day, if Alicia from the Anthropology Museum happened to be reading over my shoulder.
We were up early, heading east along Avenida Venustiano Carranza as the first light of day crept over the city. Mexico City was just beginning to wake up, street vendors setting up their carts while commuters filled the roads. Waiting for us was Armando, our guide for the day and our gateway into one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in the Americas: Teotihuacan. The first thing that strikes you about Teotihuacan is its scale. Pictures simply don’t do it justice!
This ancient city was first settled around 300 BC, and the monumental structures took centuries to build. At its height, Teotihuacan was one of the largest cities in the world. Its people thrived here for nearly a thousand years before the city was eventually abandoned around 1000 AD. That’s centuries before the Mexica (Aztecs) rose to power and long before Hernán Cortés arrived with his conquistadors.
Our first major stop was the Temple of the Moon. And yes, we climbed it. The steps are steep. Very steep!! Again, photos simply can’t convey how straight UP these steps are! By the time we reached the top, my legs were questioning several life choices. But the view was worth every step!
One of the more fascinating discoveries at Teotihuacan was a jaguar mural uncovered in the 1960s. Even after centuries buried beneath layers of earth, the artwork provides a glimpse into a civilization whose stories are still being pieced together. From there we continued along the Avenue of the Dead, the massive roadway running through the heart of the city.
As we gradually descended in elevation, Armando pointed out large open plazas and depressions that appear to have been designed to collect and manage water. The more we learned, the more obvious it became that Teotihuacan wasn’t just impressive—it was incredibly sophisticated. As we were walking Armando pointed out something remarkable: the mountain range behind the temple mirrors the shape of the structure itself. Whether intentional or coincidence, the alignment creates an almost perfect visual harmony between nature and architecture. Thousands of years later, it still feels incredibly deliberate.
Another surprise? The city wasn’t originally gray stone. Many of the structures were coated in a reddish mineral-based plaster that would have made the entire city glow with color. Archaeologists later discovered that some of this red pigment contained significant amounts of mercury. Considering the average life expectancy was considerably shorter back then, I think we may have discovered why!
Eventually we reached the Temple of the Sun. Massive doesn’t begin to describe it. It is considered one of the largest ancient structures in the world and is often listed among the largest pyramidal monuments ever built. Unfortunately for visitors — and probably fortunately for the monument itself — it has been closed to climbers since 2019. Even from ground level, though, its size is staggering. One of the most fascinating parts of the day came underground. We entered an archaeological area where Armando explained how Teotihuacan’s inhabitants tracked celestial events and cycles. Their calculations suggested that the world could end every 52 years.
Naturally, this caused some concern. As the end of a cycle approached, many people would discard possessions and prepare for the possibility that the sun might never rise again. To encourage cooperation from the gods, a human sacrifice would be offered. A fire would then be lit upon the body. If the flame successfully ignited, it was interpreted as a sign that the gods were pleased and that the sun would return for another cycle.
Imagine spending an entire year wondering whether civilization would continue, only to wake up the next morning and think: “Well, I guess we’re good for another 52 years.” Human beings have apparently been worrying about the end of the world for a very, very long time.
By the time we finished exploring Teotihuacan, we had worked up quite an appetite. Our tour included a tour of a local shop, a mezcal tasting, and lunch at a local restaurant, where we each tried a variety of dishes, including mole chicken. Sweet, savory, smoky, earthy, and slightly spicy, somehow all at once. It wasn’t anybody’s favorite, but I’m glad we tried it!
After returning to the city, we spent some time wandering Roma Norte. What many visitors don’t realize is that the neighborhood was once a horse-racing track before evolving into one of Mexico City’s most desirable and stylish districts.Tree-lined streets, beautiful architecture, sidewalk cafés, boutique shops, and a pace that feels noticeably calmer than other parts of the city. If we ever return to Mexico City, I’d love to rent a small Airbnb here and spend a week simply exploring the neighborhood!
One of our favorite discoveries was Mercado Roma. Imagine if a food court, an artisan market, and an old-school arcade all decided to merge into a single building.Dozens of small chefs and food stalls offered everything from Korean and Thai cuisine to traditional Mexican specialties. Every corner seemed to reveal something new.
The evening began with a fascinating introduction to the history and culture of Mexican wrestling. Over margaritas, beer, and mezcal, our guide explained the traditions of lucha libre, the meaning behind the colorful masks, and how generations of Mexican families have grown up cheering for their favorite wrestlers. The cultural history was genuinely interesting and gave us a much deeper appreciation for why this isn’t just entertainment—it’s part of Mexico’s identity.
Then we headed to the arena. Our tour group included about 20 to 25 people from around the world, all excited for the night’s matches. Outside the venue, vendors sold brightly colored luchador masks, and the crowd buzzed with anticipation. It was clear we were about to experience something distinctly Mexican.
Unfortunately, this is where my review takes a slight turn.
By this point in the trip, I wasn’t feeling my best. Whether it was travel fatigue, something I ate, or an unfortunate encounter with Mexican water, my stomach and I were no longer on speaking terms. While the rest of the group settled into the excitement, I was mostly focused on surviving the evening. The arena was loud. Imagine American WWE wrestling turned up several notches, then add air horns, flashing lights, screaming fans, dramatic costumes, and enough over-the-top theatrics to make a soap opera seem subtle.
The crowd absolutely loved it. The boys loved it. Most of our tour group loved it. I spent much of the evening wondering if I was actively losing brain cells.
The wrestling itself was surprisingly athletic. The performers launched themselves through the air, flew off ropes, and somehow combined genuine skill with storylines that the crowd appeared to know ahead of time. To be fair, I completely understand why people enjoy it. The crowd’s enthusiasm was contagious, and there was something charming about seeing entire families cheering together. It felt like a uniquely Mexican blend of sport and theater.
Was it my favorite part of the trip? Not even close. Would I recommend it to someone who enjoys live entertainment, people-watching, and a healthy dose of organized chaos? Absolutely!
As for me, by the end of the night I was more than ready to return to the apartment, crawl into bed, and prepare for our journey home. Once home, whatever bacteria I digested in Mexico required antibiotics to recover from…. so yeah, not the best ending. The trip overall, however, was amazing!